Cambodia : Angkor Watt at a glance



I asked the driver to drop me at Istanbul Guesthouse. I’m not making a formal booking for this since I have sent an email to the Owner, Mr Shu; a couchsurfing member who just opened his own guesthouse and restaurant. A Turkish that married to local, built his  family and live happily in Siam Reap. He’s not providing couch for free like another host, but based on review from some travelers, he is very helpful and thoughtful about our trip plan. With Shu’s help, I’ve booked my daytrip to Angkor Watt with the same Tuk-Tuk’s driver that brought me to his place. I picked a single room with an air conditioner since I want to totally recharge my energy and sometimes its just to please my body for stay healthy all the time. Especially after so many overnight stay on the bus since I departed from Jakarta.

What I love about him is about how he tells some story about his dream and the other is how he treats others. He left Turkey and traveled around the world to find the best place to build his dream. Stay at one place, and then run the guesthouse with a small restaurant. He’s been in Indonesia and Malaysia but it’s a bit difficult for him to build his dream in a Muslim country. He has traveled a lot until he stay in Siam Reap and make his own kingdom, a family.

Siam Reap’s people lives happily with what they have. There’s no big industry and company that absorbed most of the labor. They lived on what Angkor Watt preserve as the world international heritage, tourism. And this is the one that Shu’s choose for his life, live in peace. This short story reminds me a lot to The Lucky One, a books and movie presenting that the main actor traveled along the way after his duty as an army and become a dog practitioner for the sake of peace.

The driver took me at 10 AM to start our trip around Angkor Watt. Since the area is very very huge, the entrance ticket offered in one, two, three till a week day pass. The ticket will have our picture on it since they took our picture at the ticketing office. I choose one day pass since I am not a huge fans of artificial thing and history. And trust me, I have no time and don't think that I can afford a long walk for a couple days.

Since I only took one day pass, the driver suggested me to visit the main temple which is the biggest one. I spent like two and half hours for the first temple, and one hour each for the remaining. And surely, it was a big area. Other than the one that mostly presented in the media as representatives of the Angkor Watt, I’ve visited one temple with many big trees inside. The trees crush and blend with the temple’s building. And this one, is the place where Tomb Raider ( a movie starring by Angelina Jolie) was taken. The driver asked me whether I want to have lunch, but I told him that I just have some fruits and water. Sorry sir, I am a damn picky eater!! I finished all the package at 4 or 5 PM and heading back to the guesthouse. Yeah, I am totally tired and it’s time to sleep.

Its interesting to met some souvenir seller during temple hoping. Some kids will pass through the temple and strolling around the visitor to offer souvenirs like magnet, mini bracelet and some small souvenir that easier for them to bring inside. At the hub some clothes stall get ready with their unique  Cambodian style. Most of them fabricated with an Elephant or flowery style, just like the one we've got in Thailand. The price? that's what make me more surprise. For one fridge magnet, it can be started at USD 10 for 3 and went down as low as USD 1 per pcs. The same thing happened for the elephant hippie trousers, from USD 5 per pcs into USD 5 for 2.

After have some rest, I went down and meet the other guest, a young lady ( I forgot her name, sorry) from Taiwan. She will stay at Shu’s place for 3 months and love to explore Cambodia by motorbike and by herself. Amazing right? I told her to join couchsurfing for her next travel and she loves the idea. She looks pity on me since I only enjoy some banana while she have a huge bowl of warm soup with rice. She just got surprised when I told her that I’m leaving tomorrow morning to Bangkok and told me to wake her up before I left but I don’t. She stay up until night and still on her bed when I leave. Good luck girl, till we meet again.

So after have a morning chit chat with Shu and Family, someone come and pick my stuff to board into the bus. Anyway, goodbye Shu and Siam Reap, Its nice to know you. Another surprise, there’s a minivan that picked me up instead of the bus. The driver told me that we will change the ride when we reach the main street. But it never happened. We do change the ride, but its just a higher minivan and not the bus. A disappointment gesture show up among the passengers, including me of course since it’s gonna be a long long ride.
 

It seems not enough with one surprise in the morning, just after 2 hours ride, the tire is broken. We was in the middle of nowhere, even no place for just to hide our skin from burning. And the crazy me just can’t tell how happy I am (I am a truly crazy girl). Even I have some pics taken.
 

After that, a countless inconvenient things happened. A long walk to the border without any guidance, 2 hours waiting out of the border (Thailand base) just to wait another passenger from another Cambodian’s bus provider to join us, plus one hour another waiting in rest area for the same reason.

Its 2 PM already and I’m started worrying about my next schedule. Yeah, I have to reach Bangkok, especially train station at 7 PM. I have to buy sleeper train to Nongkhai and enter Laos from Thanaleg. And the driver told me that it still needs 3 hours to go and reach the Khaosan Road (Backpacker area in Bangkok). Crossing finger.

The bus dropped me at Khaosan around 6 PM, after bought some meals and took money from ATM, I run into motorbike driver and ask him to take me to Hualamphong train station. Arrived safely, I got the ticket and still have a chance the famous and halal tom yum cup noodle in supermarket.

So its not about the destination, but the journey that matters. Happy traveling guys!!!

18 Hours overland from Vietnam to Cambodia

18 it’s not a number when I attempted my first year at college. It’s a huge number, so i called this number as my starting point to learn to be an adults instead of the famous sweet seventeen. Why? Lets not talk about it. At this note 18 referring to total hours I’ve taken during my overland trip from Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam) to Siam Reap (Cambodia).

Well, surely its tiring to spent 18 hours on the road but many things happened during those plenty of time. Mostly I’m just sitting on the bus, and so sorry its not even a sleeper bus. There’s no sleeper bus available to cross those countries. Even if some tour have one, the sleeper one only got us into the halfway of the journey. Most of the bus runs from Ho Chi Minh (HCMC) to Pnompenh and then we have to change into another bus. Some waiting time needed for sure because actually the bus is directed by different operator. If you have booked your trip all the way to Siam Reap, no need to pay additional fee, the first bus provider will ensure that you got your next ticket. Ask the tour which one of the package trip those will directly heading to Siam Reap, because some of them left 6 to hours waiting time in Pnom Penh.

I booked my ticket in one of tour agency in Pham Ngu Lao (HCMC backpacker area). After have some comparison from other agency in Pham Ngu Lao, hostel and other agency in Benh Tanh I decided to take a direct one from HCMC to Siam Reap with cost USD 21 per person. The bus will pick me at the agency at 12 PM (noon), but I’m a lil bit late so someone drive me by motorbike to get on the bus.

After around 4 hours, the bus crossed the border and stopped at the rest area. Most of the passenger leaving for toilet and having lunch while I’m just accommodate my starving with some oreo and mineral water. Yeah, welcome to Cambodia!!!

Not too long after crossing the border, the bus board into the ship to cross the Mekong river. But trust me, don’t compare this crossing with the one that we have in Merak – Bakaheuni (Jakarta – Lampung) or Ketapang – Gilimanuk (Banyuwangi – Bali). The ship is huge for sure but not as huge as we have on those that wi have in Indonesia. Most of the passenger will stay on the bus, but I choose to enjoy the view outside.

Again, I found many kids selling boiled egg after I found many ladies sold the same thing in Panh Tiet, Vietnam, especially during my way from HCMC to Dalat. Some bread that most of Indochina’s countries have for any occasion and the best one a fried cockroach. Yeah Fried Cockroach, its famous and halal but I ‘m not take it for my lunch. I just don’t want to.

We continue the journey to reach the capital city, Pnom Penh and the bus directly run fast towards to bus provider’s office. I skipped Pnom Penh for leisure; I just walk around the bus station and enjoy view of the city during my tuk-tuk trip from the first bus provider to the second one. Within the frame of capital city, Pnom Penh quite crowded that night; traffic, shops, and pedestrian and street stall blended at the same time. Some western restaurants, bakery shop and yet I’m not seeing any halal food restaurant. Just a quick sightseeing I thought, and since I’m not gonna spend the night at this town lets positively thinking that I’m gonna find one in Siam Reap.

The driver dropped me in front of the open area, not that big but I never thought that it was the bus station, but it was. Unlike the common bus station in Indonesia, this one more look alike car wash station. I was reassured, since I saw some passenger filling the waiting room (open area). The driver lead me to the small ticketing office and bought me ticket to Siam Reap. The office looks spooky with a low light and a small window like a jail. One that make it looks nice, is the ticketing officer who is very kind and helpful.

I’m sitting at the waiting room along with other passenger and then there’s a Cambodian’s guy who’s try to talk to me in English. Thanks god!! He plan to visit Siam Reap during weekend and ask me whether I want to join him or not. I was happy to find a mate at the first time, because we can share the ride cost then. Until the next day when we arrived in Siam Reap.

Yeah, we reached Siam Reap around 5.30 AM. The bus stopped at the totally wet-huge-open area, some said that Siam Reap has no bus station. Many Tuk-Tuk’s driver came and approach us, but still I have no idea to bargain with one of them. I saw a European couples that clueless as me. Then, the guy called me to share Tuk-Tuk with him. Another Cambodian guy join us so I just paid USD 5 to reach my guesthouse.

The guys started to ask me join him during Angkor Watt tour, what I’m gonna do for today etc; till he mentioned that he want to stay at the hostel where close to Karaoke. He told me that he loves singing and all the way come to Siam Reap to spend most of his leisure time to sing. And I said what?? I’m not having an answer till he get off and check in.

And hey, do you think 18 is a huge number? Wait until you find out that I took 32 hours from Cambodia to reach Vang Vieng (Laos). Yups. 2 days. 3 countries. 4 cities. And it still normal compare to some European traveler who took slow boat for 3 days from Chiang May (Thailand) to Laos. Maybe I have to try it once someday. But, no matter the method that you choose just keep alert and stay safe.

Tasting the short Idul Adha in Ho Chi Minh

October 5, 2014

Actually, its on my itinerary. I intentionally took this trip during Moslem feast period. With parent permission, i would like to say that i want to have my Eid Adha prayer in another country and well, currently i plan to have it in Vietnam and even though i almost missed it, alhamdulillah i can make it. 

I woke up early in the morning for fajr praying when suddenly there's a voice of European girl asking me with a short question;

"Are you OK?" 

Yeah, its happening. Commonly, i will ask permission to other traveler before having my shalat in dormitory, but since its very early in the morning i never imagine that such a thing would be happened. Seeing me fully covered with mukena, and stay still after hearing her question, that girl went back to sleep, covered all of her body, then hiding inside the blanket. I frightened her huh... sorry. 

Moving forward, i left hostel early and decided to trust google map to find me the closest mosque. I have to find one and join Eid Adha prayer. And I got one.
 

Musulmane Mosque, DongDuk - next to Sheraton Hotel

Praying schedule at the entrance

Inside Dongduk Mosque

Pool inside the mosque - for wudhu

Musulmane Mosque, Ho Chi Minh was built in 1935 and famous as Dong Duk Mosque since its located close to Dong Duk Street. The simplest way to find this mosque is finding Sheraton Hotel in Ho Chi Minh since its just next to the hotel. I'm just happy knowing that the establishment of this hotel never ruined existence of this mosque. Just recalled what i found in Cheng Du, when i got the mosque just next into giant building but this mosque seems being abandoned.
 

The entrance is quite empty, i doubt there's some Eid Adha will be held there. But a small decoration clearly celebrate Idul Adha at the gates. A bit disappointment though till someone talk me in english; the mosque officer (Ta'mir, i thought). He said that they have held the Shalat yesterday, but there's a small group that just started the celebration today so i can join them inside. *Happy*

I took my wudhu at the place that most look like a small pool. Instead of standing, small chair provided surrounding the area. But i choose to stand. Stepped into the mosque, wearing my mukenah and be surprised again since the speech of the Imam ore done in Bahasa. I'm still waited and listened to the khotbah, at the end just noted thal all conversation are made in Bahasa. 

I found out lately that there are some Indonesian and Malaysian who worked close to the mosque area. If in Indonesia we have different hilal to celebrate moslem feast, no wonder those guys just made the shalat this morning. Eventhough its taste like local, I just  being grateful for having opportunities to take part at Eid shalat during this trip.

After a short chit chat and photo session, i decided to enter Benh Tanh Market. Bought some tshirt and back to the hostel. Yeah, its time for leavin Vietnam. I will have a long..long ride to Cambodia at 12 AM. See yaa ^^

Cho Ben Thanh

Take a footnotes at the famous Sand Dunes, Muine - Vietnam

Mui Ne

Muine can be reached through 5 up to 6 hours ride from both Da Lat and Ho Chi Minh. It was a seaside village that famous among traveler for its sand dunes and seafood, and i agree with that.

Arrived at night after leaving Da Lat, the rain poured my first step in Muine. I have to carry my bag from the bus stop and look for the Muine Backpacker Hostel. The cheapest and closest room from the bus stop that still available at that day. And surely, my bed is the last dorm bed available that night. Thanks God, can you imagine if i have to walk and ask each hostel again? I have to break my leg and say good bye for the next 11 days.

How i spent my day in Muine? As a sick girl, i rent a motorbike including the driver to assist me explore Muine in a short period. Most of the visitor who came in a group prefer using Jeep since the weather is windy and the sightseeing spot is far away from the tourist area.

I started early in the morning to visit the famous White Sand Dunes. Its a huge white sands with a breathtaking scenery. The next, Red Sand Dunes is not as beautiful as the first one. But since you already there, make a visit.

The road from the tourist area to the sand dunes is more fascinating compare to the destination itself. I love the beautiful scenery created by the farming fields at the top of the red flavor of the sands and soil mixed with the blue of the ocean. Fresh air blend with the wind and sunrise. No horn and traffic, the street almost empty like its designed for your own journey. Open your arms and feel the freedom for a while.

Only the sand dunes? of course not. Its a place called a "Fairy Stream", not to fairy for me, even beyond my expectation in a "not-so-good" thing, but i impressed with how the locals transform a small thing into tourist spot that surprisingly crowded with the visitor.

Last place is a fishing village, you can directly buy any fish and fresh seafood at the port. The fishy smell everywhere for sure, but nobody's care and enjoy the ambiance. Some people just get off from the boat or get ready to sail away. Some others keep busy to clean up some stuff and involved in a very serious bargaining process.

Do you think i miss some point about food on this trip? Not really. I do have some protein to keep my stomach feel good enough but never being fully accommodate. I have to get halal food, but i cant found any in Da Lat and Muine. I just having some boiled eggs and fruits at the rest area, sweet tea to manage my glucose and drink enough mineral water. Some seafood in Muine should be OK, but i'm not sure whether they have pork menu inside or not. In addition, its never good enough to enjoy seafood menu alone because you cant order many delicacies at the same time. Last, lets save the money ^^

Enough with all of those spots, i get back to the hostel for some shower and packing. I leave Muine at noon and headed to Ho Chi Minh. I booked my sleeper bus through receptionists and the driver pick me at the hostel promptly.

Lets go back to the city!!!

And the journey started in Vietnam

Yeah, the journey should be started in Kuala Lumpur but since i didnt do anything there other than transit, simply lets make Tan So Nath Airport, Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) as my starting point.


Some traveler notes told me to take Bus No 152 from the Airport to reach Cho Benh Tanh Area. Its cheap and easy to find because its passing arrival gate for both of domestic and international flights. But for me, its not that easy. I have waiting for 30 minutes and nothing. I started asking some airport staff and other foreigners and ended up with some direction that against each other. Even, i have moved from international to domestic flight area, until i've seen one of the bus passing by just outside the drop off area.

I went there and wait. Another passenger join and wait with me. His name is Huy. A college student studying in tourism in Ho Chi Minh. My first luck, because he can speak english then assist me to get into terminal. I plan to reach Pam Ngu Lao (Backpacker area in Ho Chi Minh) to see what i can do next, then if possible take overnight bus to Da Lat tonight. I told him the same thing, and whether he can understand what i'm saying or not; he keep saying "I will help you"

And a few minutes later, chaos happened.

We get off at Benh Tanh bus terminal (small open bus station), he asked to follow his steps while he keep asking to some local folks in Vietnamese. I started running to catch up his step, he moved very fast and again make a local conversation with the bus driver. With a fast look at me, the driver nodding his head and in a just few second Huy pushed me to get in to the bus. The bus leaving terminal to out of nowhere...

I'll be OK. I talk to myself.

After around 10-15 minutes, the bus enter a huge bus station. The driver take a look at me and told me to get off here with a sign language. And suddenly all the things became make sense again. It was a main bus terminal in Ho Chi Minh. I have to book my ticket to Da Lat from this terminal. And i got one departed at 11 AM. Its like, 10 minutes to go!!! hahahha, so i just make a fast move to find my bus. But instead a bus, i got minivan. Be ready for the eight and a half hours rocking the Vietnam land on summer.

Da Lat

Why Da Lat? Some people told me it was Paris of Asia. A beautiful and relaxing city. Indeed i thought the same way after i experience this city. And instead of wasting my time in a big city or beaches (where i prefer Indonesian beaches for the most), visiting Da Lat is not just a checklist but a memorable place ever.

Arrived around 8 PM last night. I rely on my notes of one address of backpacker hostel at the center of the city. The mini van dropped me at the gas station which is beyond my expectation. So i just get in to the motorbike and heading to the hostel when someone offered me his ride. I have to pay of course.

I stayed for a night at Backpacker Paradise Hostel. I got the name from hostelworld.com with a good review for a clean, nice and not too expensive dorm. Yeah, i spent only USD 4.5 per night. I got a towel, clean bed (dorm), welcome drink and very nice owner and staff. One thing that makes me not being comfortable is the dogs, since i'm afraid of it. I always stay away from them when i walked around the lobby. But nothing to worry since the owner will take care of it, and your room at the top floor. So they will never interrupt your resting time.

What you can do in Dalat:
1. Crazy House
2. Swan Lake
3. Temples
4. Cho Da Lat Market
5. City Centre
6. Da Lat Flower Park

I explore all of those area within a day using a motorbike (incl the driver). I want to stay longer and surely gonna back here someday.